Actually, the title would make equal or greater value...I mean sense (too much two-for-one legal copy reading for me) if I were to shift the comma one word to the right, and relocate the first word directly after that displaced mark of punctiation (for those who lack the mental energy to parse the preceding list of modifications (regular expression available upon request), the result would read "Down Under, Connection Reinstatement"). For I pen (figuratively) these words little more than one week following my return from 75 days spent canoeing and backpacking (an activity known to the locals as hiking or treking - backpacking is equivalent to the passtime which we back here in the states call hitchhiking. Although we did pick up a hitchhiker during our final bus ride back to our base camp...but to elaborate any further would be to completely violate the sense of natural progression which readers tend to enjoy, particularly during the expository stages of a written piece) in the wilderness of Australia - for the benefit of those a.)familiar with the area or b.)obsessed (like I am) with specific details, a more specific description of my location would be the Kimberly region, including travel on or near the Drysedale River, Carson Escarpment, Carson River, and Laurie Creek. Indeed, less than 14 days ago, the figurative term "pen" would have been quite literal, but my situation has of course changed greatly. The email backlog has been processed, the pictures are uploading to the web (while simultaneously causing my hard drive to wonder why it suddenly has 12 GB less space), and my fingers are once more accustomed to that text entry system most strongly associated with home computing systems. The time now seems ripe for reflection upon that which I've learned (were this a Veggietales episode, this would be the point at which Larry enjoys the "What Have We Learned" song and the accompanying antics of Bob in his efforts to disable the ~20 second song before its natural conclusion). In such a reflection, I could focus upon the more commonly anticipated fruits such an experience: greater confidence and training as a leader, even greater appreciation for the wilderness, decent proficiency in whitewater canoeing and off-trail navigation, and so on. I could even particularly emphasize those abilities which I can put into practice throughout my daily life back in civilization (associated buzzword: "transferable skills"), such as simple living, self-sufficiency, life in the present, and so on. But then I realize that while those may come quickly to mind, and are certainly useful, a list focused exclusively upon such aspects would read more like a sales brochure (that is, poorly - works of writing in general are not known for their ability to consume vast tracts of literature) than a true reflection which at least tries (even if fails miserably) to capture the essence of these past 2.5 months (such works, inexplicably, scored far higher on the SAT Verbal section - spawning extensive legal battles as to whether this was indicative of deep-rooted flaws in that widely-used standardized test or, alternatively, provided a long-sought defense against accusations that the exam had been written in a manner which discriminated against inanimate objects. Similar suits were subsequently filed against the ACT, on which all written works had exhibited consistently poor performance). What follows is an attempt to enact such captivity (don't worry, it's only temporary - I'll treat the essence very humanely and release it upon the conclusion of this reflective period) in list form. In no particular order (or rather, not organized according to principles which would be understood by any outside - or perhaps even within - the consciousness of the author), I shall now attempt to describe a few (or several - whichever connotation you prefer) observations and lessons from this epic journey.
- The Paradox of (Campsite) Choice: Those who have read Michael Pollan's excellent work of literature entitled The Omnivore's Dilemma (my familiarity with which, interestingly, proceeds from the same root cause as the presence of this blog - both were initially Honors Program assignments) may be familiar with this concept as it applies to food: as omnivores, we can eat almost anything...our problem lies in choosing what to eat. A similar issue arose from the noticeable lack of established campsites encountered while traveling through the most remote place on earth (a title which I am told the Kimberly holds). I have heard it claimed that campsites are designated within other wilderness areas for the purpose of minimizing the impact of overnight guests upon the surrounding ecosystem. However, I know that their true purpose is to protect people from their own indecision; on several occasions my group, lacking such guidance, found it necessary to examine 5 or more campsites (over the course of an hour or more) before locating suitable lodging for the night. Additionally, such designations are often for the protection of local pizza parlors, lest they become swamped with orders from hungry campers who had just spent their past hours evaluating potential locations rather than preparing an evening repast. Thus the loose correlation between formality in site designation and proximity to civilization is demystified. In areas where cell service is available and a such a culinary establishment may be in the vicinity, specific sites are assigned upon check-in at the latest. Whereas backcountry camps, in which coverage by a cell network (much less a restaurant delivery area) is questionable at best, may find that a few wooden posts suffice to indicate those resting places which are considered most suitable.
- Barrels of gold
- Wildlife is a Double Edged Sword: Note: the title of this entry should not be interpreted in a literal fashion. Fear not, PETA: the local wildlife was not at any time made to serve as a substitute for weapons which we were unable to bring with us. Although the spears of cane grass are nearly as sharp, in addition to nicely illustrating this phenomenon. When first "discovered", cane grass fascinated us all; we had found not only a plant which we could eat but also the only sugary snack of which a nearly limitless supply was present. A month passed, the cane grass dried out, we began hiking, and attitudes changed. No longer a delightful treat, this plant through which we were frequently forced to bush-bash (a term which sounds like a popular political activity during much of the last decade, but is actually Aussie for bush-whacking) became a nuisance. Frequent breaks became necessary not due to of fatigue but because we would grow tired of being stabbed by the offspring-to-be of the brush through which our route had recently taken us. Group sentiment regarding the green ants native to the area followed a similar pattern. When initially discovered, they were the subject of much interest and the cause of much joy. For these vegetation-dwelling insects possess an oil whose flavor resembles that of a green Jolly Rancher - we spent many a minute picking the ants up and licking them (discussions later arose regarding the trauma, and resulting boom in business for psychiatrists, that this must cause among the insect community) this must cause among the affected population). However, these same creatures were later encountered on the trail, at which point their tendency to swarm and bite hikers who brushed their nests was noted. Needless to say (a phrase which seems to indicate that the following words are completely superfluous, and from which one may logically conclude that either the preface or the sentence following is placed purely for literary effect), this again led to frequent irritation and equally-frequent removal stops.
- Rain of Terror: The domain of metaphorical sharp-objects-which-cause-incisions-in-both-directions is not limited to animate objects. An equally qualified member of this set fell with some regularity from the sky. The rain (note: the microorganisms which would inevitably be found within those airborne droplets of dihydrogen monoxide are ignored for the purposes of this discussion, less ambiguity arise and I spend precious space and time attempting to explain their impact (or lack thereof) upon my "inanimate object" classification. Which they shouldn't - although it is difficult to separate the two physically without special equipment, it is quite simple to do so mentally, and speak about the water independent of anything contained within it. After all, one can speak of the ocean without including each boat traveling upon it, and in any case it the water is the component of the rain which triggers the experience of dampness so associated with that meteorological phenomenon...and I believe I just had the discussion I was attempting to avoid. If only I had some way...some button I could push...that would allow me to take those words back. But alas, we cannot reverse the mistakes of the past; we can only mitigate their effects in the future by taking action in the present), when first it began to descend from the skies, provided a welcome relief from the heat even when we were traveling on top of the water (see below if the preceding sentence didn't make sense), or while hiking. However, the grass is always greener on the other side of the river/trail (particularly when it's being rained upon), and we all soon tired of the constant precipitation. Now this is a statement which may misfit in a writing of one who is known for walking through the 30 degree (Fahrenheit) Portland, OR rain in lightweight pants, a t-shirt, and sandals (and sometimes gloves - my hands get cold). I would like to state, for the record, that rain is pleasant. However, to hike, make camp, pack, unpack, eat, and sleep in a multi-day continuous rain storm, with only a small tarp and tent for refuge, fully aware that anything which becomes damp will remain in that state until the Earth completes several full revolutions...that is somewhat unpleasant. Especially when, despite these circumstances, the location of water (for drinking and cooking) is still a top priority. The full irony of this situation was made clear to me on that day when, after hiking all day in the rain, we still had to send out a runner party for water because the stream by our camp had dried up).
- Salt for Gold: Those who posses sufficiently vivid memories of African history may recall that salt and gold were once traded in equal quantities. Had the latter been present in larger quantities, such an exchange would probably still have been considered unfair - salt was too valuable. Indeed, in an environment where food is so essential for survival, yet only available in fixed quantities, it becomes tantamount to a form of currency. Wagers are backed by packs of ramen, degrees measured with compasses to ensure that baked goods are divided equally...and rations guarded jealously. Interesting patterns of behavior are soon observed. Only when you're food stressed will you sleep with your wallet outside in your pack, but bring your ration bags inside your tent because your neighbors are running low on food. And only when you're food stressed does a stolen jar of peanut butter represent the most heinous of all crimes. So spare food is gathered, saved by those capable of such extreme self-control...and then consumed freely as the end of the trip draws near and the realization dawns that, upon return to civilization, this "currency" will be worth only slightly more than the Deutschmark during the depression.
- Titanium Chef: After the preceding discussion about the importance of food, it seems fitting that two points should be devoted to this topic. For fear of loss is not the only fruit of our limited rations. Great challenges can also result, compared to which Iron Chef competitions pale. For nothing stretches the imagination like receiving three duffels full of (mostly dried) food and being told that those are the ingredients from which the next ten days' meals will be created. When food is plentiful this is provides great freedom. When over 50 days on the trail have elapsed and appetites are greater, the planning of menus becomes a delicate operation. One must ensure that neither more nor less than the allotted amount is consumed each day, while simultaneously striving to create varied and delicious meals from a fairly-unchanging list of ingredients - a game known by such names as "how shall we use our cheese this week", "what else can we make with lentils", and "please tell me we're done with the rice".
- How do you find a lost GPS? One of the more amusing (to those who find themselves entertained by painful irony) experiences of this voyage resulted from forgetfulness. It was a dark and stormy night...strike that...it was a bright and sunny (ergo rather warm) day, and we were in the midst of a 5 hour bush-bashing session (during which a whopping 2 kilometers were covered. Calculation of our exact speed during this ordeal is left as an exercise for the reader - I don't really want to know how slow we went). Tired and discouraged, we took a brief break to rest and check our location. Shortly after the resumption of forward progress the latter, and to a lesser extent the former descriptive became amplified when it became known that our GPS receiver had been unintentionally abandoned at that point of rest. Too weary to turn back, we opted to record the coordinates at which that act of neglect occurred, and return the following day. Evening passes, and morning comes, and we set out, GPS in hand (to disappoint those who were hoping for a good catch-22 type response to the title question, we simply used one of the other three GPS units carried by the group), to implement Tom Sawyer's "Brother, go find your brother" methodology for the reclamation off lost property. However, the 100 meter level of precision to which we remembered our coordinates proved a significant setback in this quest given the rather large number of similar-looking small hills located in the vicinity. I could elaborate on all the different tactics with which we experimented, but I doubt that such detail - descriptions of how we explored the area at length, individually and in groups, in ordered grids and random patterns, wondering whether we were even at the right location at all, seeing many a distant-location-which-looks-promising-but-proves-to-be-naught-but-a-false-hope, gradually expanding our search area and begging our memories for more clues as to the location which we sought, until we finally found that which we sought - would serve any purpose other than to perhaps convey to the reader the level of frustration and fatigue which we began to feel before we determined that the ultimate answer (to the title question, not to life, the universe, and everything - that would be 42) is simply the age-old adage that If at first you don't succeed, skydiving's not for you try, try again.
- NOLS is all about TLA's (Three Letter Acronyms). And it stands for No Official Lunch Stop (we simply consume trail-mix type foods in small amounts during breaks). I can't think of anything else clever to say about that.
- Whoever said canoes should be paddled? To the city-dweller, the phrase "canoeing expedition" typically conjures images of the intrepid ibex (sorry...I've been following Ubuntu Linux too closely) explorer, paddling h[is,er] canoe down the smooth waters of a river which stretches off into the distance before vanishing around a distant corner. Okay, maybe that's a bit overly poetic...but what is poetry but the closest expression in words of a beauty which cannot be described, only experienced (maybe that justification is a bit overly poetic as well). In any case, my aquatic activities of 38 days of my voyage would by and large (there were a couple days of smooth-water travel) discredit that idyllic image of relaxation. Aquatic bouldering would be a more accurate descriptive; a large portion of the ~220 kilometers on the river were traversed on foot, pulling the canoes (which served more as floating wagons than personal transportation on many a day) over and through what I imagine would be considered class 2 or 3 rapids. If you don't believe me, ask my shins; somehow the submerged rocks with which my legs frequently collided all reach the exact same height. Yet these differences are not enumerated with the rather negative connotation that "different" bears at times. My conception of canoeing has been forever altered, but this change takes the form of an expansion upon, not a replacement replacement of, a preexisting vision.
Well, despite what I may or may not have said in the introduction above (to be honest - would I ever not be - I don't remember its contents all to well myself. For over three weeks have elapsed since I first put fingers to keyboard and commence this work. I apologize for the delay in publication, but take solace in the fact that no general announcement in advance significantly reduces the number of people who wait impatiently for the completion of this document), the above points do not even come close to capturing the essence of such a voyage. There is so much more I could write about (for example, the fact that we traveled further in our final bus ride home than we did during our two months in the bush), and perhaps someday I shall. But I also consider my above comment about the indescribability of certain experiences, and realize that I may be wasting my time already. The only way to fully understand such an experience is to live it. But for those without the time, ability and/or inclination to do so, the above should provide a sufficient approximation to satisfy any curiosity. If I'm wrong in that regard...well, you'll just have to ask me to elaborate.